Goodman Central Air Condensing Unit Filter Drier Replacement 0162R00009

Total Parts Cost

$NaN

23:36

Description

This video provides step-by-step repair instructions for replacing the filter drier on a Goodman central air condensing unit. The most common reason for replacing this part is if the unit does not cool or is not running at all.

All of the information for this replacement video is applicable to the following brands: Goodman

Step By Step Instructions

Print Instructions

To replace the filter-drier in this goodman central air condensing unit…

… you will need these tools.

You should also wear personal protective equipment such as safety glasses and gloves.

We recommend that only licensed technicians perform this procedure.

Before you begin, shut off the power to the unit.

You can do this by removing the fuses from the disconnect box…

…or switching off the circuit breaker.

Shut off the power to the furnace as well.

Your first step is to recover the refrigerant from the condensing unit’s refrigeration system.

To do this, remove the protective caps… then thread two valve core removal tools onto the liquid and vapor service valves.

With both valves on the tools open, push the stems in and rotate counter-clockwise to unthread the core, or schrader valve, from each service valve.

Close the valves on the tools… then unthread the stem nuts to fully remove the stems and cores.

Next, attach vacuum hoses to the ports on the tools.

Attach the opposite end of the hoses to a “t” connecter.

Now attach a third vacuum hose to the “t” connecter…

… then attach the opposite end of the hose to the inlet port on a refrigerant recovery machine.

Use a fourth vacuum hose to connect the outlet port of the recovery machine…

… to a recovery tank.

Set the recovery tank on a digital scale.

Open the valves on the core removal tools attached to the service valves.

Now partially unthread the hose attached to the inlet port on the refrigerant recovery machine for a few seconds to purge the line… then tighten the hose.

Turn on the scale and calibrate to “zero”.

Now select “recover” on the digital scale control.

Open the inlet valve on the tank.

With the recovery machine’s inlet valve closed, open the outlet valve, turn the machine on, then open the inlet valve to recover the refrigerant.

This process will take approximately ten to twenty minutes.

The total amount of recovered refrigerant should be close to the factory charge amount indicated on the model number label attached to the condensing unit.

Once the refrigerant has been fully recovered, close the valves on the tools attached to the service valves…

… and well as the valve on the recovery machine.

With the valves closed…

… turn off the recovery machine…

…and close the inlet valve on the tank.

Detach the vacuum hoses from the core removal tools.

Be aware, the old refrigerant will need to be recycled in accordance with e.p.a. regulations.

Next, use a 5/16th inch nut driver to unthread the two lower screws securing the unit’s control box access cover.

Loosen the two upper screws directly above the access cover so you can pull the cover down to remove.

Unthread the two screws securing the control box to the frame.

With the screws unthreaded, pull the control box down and rotate it outward to move it out of the way.

Now unthread the four screws securing the lower access cover.

Remove the cover and you can access the filter-drier.

Unthread the two screws to release the filter-drier mounting strap.

Use a tubing cutter to cut the 3/8th inch copper tubing at the top and bottom of the filter-drier to remove the old component.

To prepare to install the new filter-drier…

… first remove the protective caps from the ends of the component.

Now use a deburring tool to eliminate any burrs on the inside of the cut ends of the copper tubing.

Clean and sand the ends of the tubing to remove any additional debris.

Now, with the arrow on the new filter-drier label facing downward toward the service valves, insert the refrigerant tubing into the component.

Apply some cooling gel to the top and bottom of the filter-drier, as well as the liquid service valve, to prevent the metal from overheating when brazing.

Before you begin brazing, you should introduce a small amount of nitrogen into the refrigeration system using a nitrogen tank and a manifold gauge.

To do this…

… attach the blue hose from the manifold gauge to the core removal tool threaded onto the low-side vapor service valve.

Attach the gauge’s yellow hose to the metering device on a nitrogen tank.

Open both valves on the tools attached to the high and low-side service valves.

Open the low-side manifold gauge valve or valves but keep the high-side gauge valve closed.

now open the nitrogen tank valve…

… and set the metering device on the tank to five standard cubic feet per hour.

This will help prevent the inner walls of the copper tubing from oxidizing due to the heat caused by the brazing.

Now use an acetylene torch and a brazing rod to seal the tubing joints.

Once sealed, close the valve on the tool attached to the low-side vapor service valve…

… as well as the low-side valve or valves on the manifold gauge…

… and the nitrogen tank valve.

You can use a wet rag to cool the tubing and wipe off the gel.

Position the filter-drier behind the mounting strap and thread the two screws to secure the strap.

Next, you should induce pressure in the refrigeration system to check for leaks.

Note the factory test pressure rating range indicated on the model number label.

You will want to induce pressure slightly above the lower parameter rating – for this unit, we’re choosing 300 pounds per square inch.

Confirm the low-side manifold gauge valve or valves are closed…

… then close the valve on the blue hose and confirm the valve on the tool attached to the low-side service valve is closed.

With both valves closed, detach the blue hose.

Attach the red manifold gauge hose to the core removal tool threaded onto the high-side liquid service valve.

Confirm the tool valve is open and open the hose valve.

You will need to detach the nitrogen tank’s metering device and reattach the yellow hose to the tank.

Now open the valve on the nitrogen tank…

… and open the high-side manifold gauge valve or valves to induce the designated amount of pressure.

Once the pressure amount is reached, close both the manifold gauge valves and the valve on the nitrogen tank.

Observe the pressure amount for approximately twenty minutes to confirm the system is not leaking pressure.

You can also apply leak detection solution to the copper tubing joints to help determine if any leaks are present.

Once you confirm the system is leak-free, open the valve on the tool attached to the low-side vapor service valve to release the pressure.

Detach the red hose from the tool threaded onto the high-side liquid service valve.

You can now reposition the lower access cover and secure it with the screws.

Rotate the control box inward and push up.

Rethread the two screws to secure.

Reposition the upper access cover…

… and replace the two lower screws.

Tighten the two upper screws.

Next, you will want to confirm the refrigeration system is fully evacuated before introducing new refrigerant.

To do this…

… attach the vacuum hoses to the core removal tools threaded onto the liquid and vapor service valves.

Attach a digital vacuum gauge to the port on the side of the core removal tool threaded onto the liquid service valve.

Use a vacuum hose to connect the “t” connecter to a vacuum pump.

Turn the digital vacuum gauge on…

… and confirm both valves on the tools attached to the service valve are open.

Turn on the vacuum pump to fully evacuate the refrigeration system – this will take approximately twenty minutes.

It is recommended to evacuate the system to 500 microns or below.

Close the valves on the two core removal tools attached to the service valves… and turn off the vacuum pump.

Now observe the vacuum gauge for approximately ten to fifteen minutes to confirm the micron level does not exceed one thousand microns.

Once confirmed, detach the vacuum hoses from the core removal tools.

Detach the digital vacuum gauge as well

Next, confirm the cores, or schrader valves, are inserted into the ends of the core removal tool stems.

100

Insert the stems into the tools and tighten the stem nuts.

101

To reinstall a core, open the valve on the tool, push the stem in and rotate clockwise to thread the core into place.

102

Repeat for the other service valve.

103

With the cores reinstalled, unthread both tools.

104

You’re now ready to replace the refrigerant in the system – we recommend using new refrigerant when doing this.

105

Attach the manifold gauge’s yellow hose to a refrigerant tank containing the refrigerant type indicated on the unit’s model number label.

106

Turn the refrigerant tank upside down on the digital scale to ensure the liquid refrigerant will disperse through the hoses.

107

Open the manifold gauge valves…

108

… and the valve on the tank.

109

Now open the red and blue hose valves briefly to purge the hoses.

110

Once purged, attach the red hose to the high-side liquid service valve…

111

… and the blue hose to the low-side vapor service valve.

112

Now close the manifold gauge valves…

113

… and open the hose valves.

114

Calibrate the scale to “zero”…

115

… then set the scale for the appropriate factory charge amount as listed on the unit’s model number label – this unit requires 91 ounces.

116

Open the red high side manifold gauge valve or valves controlling the input to the liquid service valve.

117

Observe the scale and close the manifold gauge valve or valves once the appropriate amount of refrigerant has entered the system.

118

Now restore power to both the condensing unit…

119

… and the furnace.

120

Lower the thermostat to call for cooling…

121

… and allow the condensing unit to run for approximately five minutes.

122

Depending on the type of metering device used on the furnace’s evaporator coil, you will now need to check either the superheat or subcooling measurement.

123

If the metering device is a piston or orifice style, you will check the superheat measurement.

124

To do this, attach a temperature meter to the low-side copper line connected to the vapor service valve.

125

Note the temperature.

126

Now observe the vapor service valve indicator dial on the manifold gauge to note the saturated temperature of the evaporator coil.

127

The superheat measurement will be the saturated temperature of the evaporator coil subtracted from the copper line temperature.

128

Next, use a psychrometer’s wet bulb to measure the air temperature in the return duct of the furnace, in the area before the air reaches the evaporator coil.

129

Use the psychrometer’s dry bulb, or a regular thermometer, to measure the temperature of the outside air surrounding the condensing unit.

130

Now, using a target superheat chart, you can identify the target superheat number by noting where the two air temperature readings intersect on the chart.

131

If the actual superheat measurement is notably higher than the target number, you will need to add refrigerant to the system until the actual superheat measurement more closely aligns with the target.

132

If the actual superheat measurement is notably lower than the target number, you will need to recover some of the refrigerant until the two numbers more closely align.

133

It is recommended to perform the superheat testing procedure a second time for accuracy.

134

If the metering device on the furnace’s evaporator coil is a thermal expansion valve, you will need to check the subcooling measurement.

135

To do this, attach the temperature meter to the high-side copper line connected to the liquid service valve.

136

Note the temperature.

137

Now observe the liquid service valve indicator dial on the manifold gauge to note the saturated temperature of the condenser coil.

138

The subcooling measurement will be the copper line temperature subtracted from the condenser coil saturated temperature.

139

This measurement should be between ten to twenty degrees fahrenheit or within three degrees, plus or minus, of the designated temperature indicated on the model number label.

140

If the subcooling measurement is notably higher, you will need to recover some of the refrigerant.

141

If the subcooling measurement is notably lower, you will need to add some refrigerant.

142

Once you’ve confirmed the refrigerant level is accurate, close the valve on the refrigerant tank…

143

… and open the blue low-side manifold gauge valve or valves to let the residual refrigerant enter the vapor service valve.

144

Close the two hose valves…

145

… and quickly detach the hoses from the service valves.

146

Replace the protective caps…

147

… or install locking caps if required.

148

The central air condensing unit should now be ready for use.

Description

Step-By-Step Instructions

To replace the filter-drier in this goodman central air condensing unit…

… you will need these tools.

You should also wear personal protective equipment such as safety glasses and gloves.

We recommend that only licensed technicians perform this procedure.

Before you begin, shut off the power to the unit.

You can do this by removing the fuses from the disconnect box…

…or switching off the circuit breaker.

Shut off the power to the furnace as well.

Your first step is to recover the refrigerant from the condensing unit’s refrigeration system.

To do this, remove the protective caps… then thread two valve core removal tools onto the liquid and vapor service valves.

With both valves on the tools open, push the stems in and rotate counter-clockwise to unthread the core, or schrader valve, from each service valve.

Close the valves on the tools… then unthread the stem nuts to fully remove the stems and cores.

Next, attach vacuum hoses to the ports on the tools.

Attach the opposite end of the hoses to a “t” connecter.

Now attach a third vacuum hose to the “t” connecter…

… then attach the opposite end of the hose to the inlet port on a refrigerant recovery machine.

Use a fourth vacuum hose to connect the outlet port of the recovery machine…

… to a recovery tank.

Set the recovery tank on a digital scale.

Open the valves on the core removal tools attached to the service valves.

Now partially unthread the hose attached to the inlet port on the refrigerant recovery machine for a few seconds to purge the line… then tighten the hose.

Turn on the scale and calibrate to “zero”.

Now select “recover” on the digital scale control.

Open the inlet valve on the tank.

With the recovery machine’s inlet valve closed, open the outlet valve, turn the machine on, then open the inlet valve to recover the refrigerant.

This process will take approximately ten to twenty minutes.

The total amount of recovered refrigerant should be close to the factory charge amount indicated on the model number label attached to the condensing unit.

Once the refrigerant has been fully recovered, close the valves on the tools attached to the service valves…

… and well as the valve on the recovery machine.

With the valves closed…

… turn off the recovery machine…

…and close the inlet valve on the tank.

Detach the vacuum hoses from the core removal tools.

Be aware, the old refrigerant will need to be recycled in accordance with e.p.a. regulations.

Next, use a 5/16th inch nut driver to unthread the two lower screws securing the unit’s control box access cover.

Loosen the two upper screws directly above the access cover so you can pull the cover down to remove.

Unthread the two screws securing the control box to the frame.

With the screws unthreaded, pull the control box down and rotate it outward to move it out of the way.

Now unthread the four screws securing the lower access cover.

Remove the cover and you can access the filter-drier.

Unthread the two screws to release the filter-drier mounting strap.

Use a tubing cutter to cut the 3/8th inch copper tubing at the top and bottom of the filter-drier to remove the old component.

To prepare to install the new filter-drier…

… first remove the protective caps from the ends of the component.

Now use a deburring tool to eliminate any burrs on the inside of the cut ends of the copper tubing.

Clean and sand the ends of the tubing to remove any additional debris.

Now, with the arrow on the new filter-drier label facing downward toward the service valves, insert the refrigerant tubing into the component.

Apply some cooling gel to the top and bottom of the filter-drier, as well as the liquid service valve, to prevent the metal from overheating when brazing.

Before you begin brazing, you should introduce a small amount of nitrogen into the refrigeration system using a nitrogen tank and a manifold gauge.

To do this…

… attach the blue hose from the manifold gauge to the core removal tool threaded onto the low-side vapor service valve.

Attach the gauge’s yellow hose to the metering device on a nitrogen tank.

Open both valves on the tools attached to the high and low-side service valves.

Open the low-side manifold gauge valve or valves but keep the high-side gauge valve closed.

now open the nitrogen tank valve…

… and set the metering device on the tank to five standard cubic feet per hour.

This will help prevent the inner walls of the copper tubing from oxidizing due to the heat caused by the brazing.

Now use an acetylene torch and a brazing rod to seal the tubing joints.

Once sealed, close the valve on the tool attached to the low-side vapor service valve…

… as well as the low-side valve or valves on the manifold gauge…

… and the nitrogen tank valve.

You can use a wet rag to cool the tubing and wipe off the gel.

Position the filter-drier behind the mounting strap and thread the two screws to secure the strap.

Next, you should induce pressure in the refrigeration system to check for leaks.

Note the factory test pressure rating range indicated on the model number label.

You will want to induce pressure slightly above the lower parameter rating – for this unit, we’re choosing 300 pounds per square inch.

Confirm the low-side manifold gauge valve or valves are closed…

… then close the valve on the blue hose and confirm the valve on the tool attached to the low-side service valve is closed.

With both valves closed, detach the blue hose.

Attach the red manifold gauge hose to the core removal tool threaded onto the high-side liquid service valve.

Confirm the tool valve is open and open the hose valve.

You will need to detach the nitrogen tank’s metering device and reattach the yellow hose to the tank.

Now open the valve on the nitrogen tank…

… and open the high-side manifold gauge valve or valves to induce the designated amount of pressure.

Once the pressure amount is reached, close both the manifold gauge valves and the valve on the nitrogen tank.

Observe the pressure amount for approximately twenty minutes to confirm the system is not leaking pressure.

You can also apply leak detection solution to the copper tubing joints to help determine if any leaks are present.

Once you confirm the system is leak-free, open the valve on the tool attached to the low-side vapor service valve to release the pressure.

Detach the red hose from the tool threaded onto the high-side liquid service valve.

You can now reposition the lower access cover and secure it with the screws.

Rotate the control box inward and push up.

Rethread the two screws to secure.

Reposition the upper access cover…

… and replace the two lower screws.

Tighten the two upper screws.

Next, you will want to confirm the refrigeration system is fully evacuated before introducing new refrigerant.

To do this…

… attach the vacuum hoses to the core removal tools threaded onto the liquid and vapor service valves.

Attach a digital vacuum gauge to the port on the side of the core removal tool threaded onto the liquid service valve.

Use a vacuum hose to connect the “t” connecter to a vacuum pump.

Turn the digital vacuum gauge on…

… and confirm both valves on the tools attached to the service valve are open.

Turn on the vacuum pump to fully evacuate the refrigeration system – this will take approximately twenty minutes.

It is recommended to evacuate the system to 500 microns or below.

Close the valves on the two core removal tools attached to the service valves… and turn off the vacuum pump.

Now observe the vacuum gauge for approximately ten to fifteen minutes to confirm the micron level does not exceed one thousand microns.

Once confirmed, detach the vacuum hoses from the core removal tools.

Detach the digital vacuum gauge as well

Next, confirm the cores, or schrader valves, are inserted into the ends of the core removal tool stems.

100

Insert the stems into the tools and tighten the stem nuts.

101

To reinstall a core, open the valve on the tool, push the stem in and rotate clockwise to thread the core into place.

102

Repeat for the other service valve.

103

With the cores reinstalled, unthread both tools.

104

You’re now ready to replace the refrigerant in the system – we recommend using new refrigerant when doing this.

105

Attach the manifold gauge’s yellow hose to a refrigerant tank containing the refrigerant type indicated on the unit’s model number label.

106

Turn the refrigerant tank upside down on the digital scale to ensure the liquid refrigerant will disperse through the hoses.

107

Open the manifold gauge valves…

108

… and the valve on the tank.

109

Now open the red and blue hose valves briefly to purge the hoses.

110

Once purged, attach the red hose to the high-side liquid service valve…

111

… and the blue hose to the low-side vapor service valve.

112

Now close the manifold gauge valves…

113

… and open the hose valves.

114

Calibrate the scale to “zero”…

115

… then set the scale for the appropriate factory charge amount as listed on the unit’s model number label – this unit requires 91 ounces.

116

Open the red high side manifold gauge valve or valves controlling the input to the liquid service valve.

117

Observe the scale and close the manifold gauge valve or valves once the appropriate amount of refrigerant has entered the system.

118

Now restore power to both the condensing unit…

119

… and the furnace.

120

Lower the thermostat to call for cooling…

121

… and allow the condensing unit to run for approximately five minutes.

122

Depending on the type of metering device used on the furnace’s evaporator coil, you will now need to check either the superheat or subcooling measurement.

123

If the metering device is a piston or orifice style, you will check the superheat measurement.

124

To do this, attach a temperature meter to the low-side copper line connected to the vapor service valve.

125

Note the temperature.

126

Now observe the vapor service valve indicator dial on the manifold gauge to note the saturated temperature of the evaporator coil.

127

The superheat measurement will be the saturated temperature of the evaporator coil subtracted from the copper line temperature.

128

Next, use a psychrometer’s wet bulb to measure the air temperature in the return duct of the furnace, in the area before the air reaches the evaporator coil.

129

Use the psychrometer’s dry bulb, or a regular thermometer, to measure the temperature of the outside air surrounding the condensing unit.

130

Now, using a target superheat chart, you can identify the target superheat number by noting where the two air temperature readings intersect on the chart.

131

132

If the actual superheat measurement is notably lower than the target number, you will need to recover some of the refrigerant until the two numbers more closely align.

133

It is recommended to perform the superheat testing procedure a second time for accuracy.

134

If the metering device on the furnace’s evaporator coil is a thermal expansion valve, you will need to check the subcooling measurement.

135

To do this, attach the temperature meter to the high-side copper line connected to the liquid service valve.

136

Note the temperature.

137

Now observe the liquid service valve indicator dial on the manifold gauge to note the saturated temperature of the condenser coil.

138

The subcooling measurement will be the copper line temperature subtracted from the condenser coil saturated temperature.

139

This measurement should be between ten to twenty degrees fahrenheit or within three degrees, plus or minus, of the designated temperature indicated on the model number label.

140

If the subcooling measurement is notably higher, you will need to recover some of the refrigerant.

141

If the subcooling measurement is notably lower, you will need to add some refrigerant.

142

Once you’ve confirmed the refrigerant level is accurate, close the valve on the refrigerant tank…

143

… and open the blue low-side manifold gauge valve or valves to let the residual refrigerant enter the vapor service valve.

144

Close the two hose valves…

145

… and quickly detach the hoses from the service valves.