Goodman Central Air Condensing Unit Compressor Replacement ZP39K5EPFV830

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Total Parts Cost

$1,159.68

Estimated Savings

$112.50

31:10

Description

This video provides step-by-step repair instructions for replacing the compressor on a Goodman central air condensing unit. The most common reason for replacing this part is if the unit does not cool or is not running at all.

All of the information for this replacement video is applicable to the following brands: Goodman

Step By Step Instructions

Print Instructions

To replace the compressor in this goodman central air condensing unit…

… you will need these tools.

You should also wear personal protective equipment such as safety glasses and gloves.

We recommend that only licensed technicians perform this procedure.

Before you begin, shut off the power to the unit.

You can do this by removing the fuses from the disconnect box…

…or switching off the circuit breaker.

Shut off the power to the furnace as well.

Your first step is to recover the refrigerant from the condensing unit’s refrigeration system.

To do this, remove the protective caps… then thread two valve core removal tools onto the liquid and vapor service valves.

With both valves on the tools open, push the stems in and rotate counter-clockwise to unthread the core, or schrader valve, from each service valve.

Close the valves on the tools… then unthread the stem nuts to fully remove the stems and cores.

Next, attach vacuum hoses to the ports on the tools.

Attach the opposite end of the hoses to a “t” connecter.

Now attach a third vacuum hose to the “t” connecter…

… then attach the opposite end of the hose to the inlet port on a refrigerant recovery machine.

Use a fourth vacuum hose to connect the outlet port of the recovery machine…

… to a recovery tank.

Set the recovery tank on a digital scale.

Open the valves on the core removal tools attached to the service valves.

Now partially unthread the hose attached to the inlet port on the refrigerant recovery machine for a few seconds to purge the line… then tighten the hose.

Turn on the scale and calibrate to “zero”.

Now select “recover” on the digital scale control.

Open the inlet valve on the tank.

With the recovery machine’s inlet valve closed, open the outlet valve, turn the machine on, then open the inlet valve to recover the refrigerant.

This process will take approximately ten to twenty minutes.

The total amount of recovered refrigerant should be close to the factory charge amount indicated on the model number label attached to the condensing unit.

Once the refrigerant has been fully recovered, close the valves on the tools attached to the service valves…

… and well as the valve on the recovery machine.

With the valves closed…

… turn off the recovery machine…

…and close the inlet valve on the tank.

Detach the vacuum hoses from the core removal tools.

Be aware, the old refrigerant will need to be recycled in accordance with e.p.a. regulations.

Next, use a 5/16th inch nut driver to unthread the two lower screws securing the unit’s control box access cover.

Loosen the two upper screws directly above the access cover so you can pull the cover down to remove.

Use the wire cutters to cut the zip-tie bundling the wires together.

You should release the potentially stored electrical charge in the capacitor to avoid injury by placing the flat-head screwdriver across each set of terminals – avoid touching the metal portion of the

Now detach the brown and purple fan motor wires from the capacitor…

… and the black fan motor wire from the contactor.

Next, using the 5/16th inch nut driver, fully unthread the fourteen screws securing the air grille cover.

With all the screws unthreaded, lift the cover off of the unit.

Cut the zip-tie securing the wires to the condenser coil so you can fully remove the cover to access the compressor.

When replacing the compressor, we recommend installing a new filter-drier as well.

For better access to this component…

… unthread the two screws securing the control box to the frame.

With the screws unthreaded, pull the control box down and rotate it outward to move it out of the way.

Now unthread the four screws securing the lower access cover.

Remove the cover to reach the filter-drier.

Unthread the two screws to release the filter-drier mounting strap.

Use a tubing cutter to cut the 3/8th inch copper tubing at the top and bottom of the filter-drier to remove the old component.

When installing a new filter-drier…

… first remove the protective caps from the ends of the component.

Now use a deburring tool to eliminate any burrs on the inside of the cut ends of the copper tubing.

Clean and sand the ends of the tubing to remove any additional debris.

Now, with the arrow on the new filter-drier label facing downward toward the service valves, insert the refrigerant tubing into the component.

Apply some cooling gel to the top and bottom of the filter-drier, as well as the liquid service valve, to prevent the metal from overheating when brazing.

Before you begin brazing, you should introduce a small amount of nitrogen into the refrigeration system using a nitrogen tank and a manifold gauge.

To do this…

… attach the blue hose from the manifold gauge to the core removal tool threaded onto the low-side vapor service valve.

Attach the gauge’s yellow hose to the metering device on a nitrogen tank.

Open both valves on the tools attached to the high and low-side service valves.

Open the low-side manifold gauge valve or valves but keep the high-side gauge valve closed.

now open the nitrogen tank valve…

… and set the metering device on the tank to five standard cubic feet per hour.

This will help prevent the inner walls of the copper tubing from oxidizing due to the heat caused by the brazing.

Now use an acetylene torch and a brazing rod to seal the tubing joints.

Once sealed, close the valve on the tool attached to the low-side vapor service valve…

… as well as the low-side valve or valves on the manifold gauge…

… and the nitrogen tank valve.

You can use a wet rag to cool the tubing and wipe off the gel.

Position the filter-drier behind the mounting strap and thread the two screws to secure the strap.

To uninstall the old compressor, first disconnect the wire harness.

Now use the tubing cutter to cut the two copper tubes attached to the compressor approximately an inch away from each port.

You’ll need to use a half-inch socket with multiple extensions to unthread the four mounting bolts securing the compressor to the base of the unit.

With the bolts unthreaded, you can use the claw side of a hammer to help lift the old compressor out.

We recommend pinching off the tubing remnants on the old compressor and seal them by brazing, a requirement when shipping the component to the manufacturer for warranty purposes.

To prepare the new compressor for installation, remove the rubber plugs from the ports…

… then clean and sand the ports.

Use the deburring tool to help eliminate any burrs from the copper tubing…

… then clean and sand the ends of the tubing as well.

Now position the new compressor on the base of the condensing unit.

Thread and tighten the four mounting bolts.

Insert the copper tubing into the ports.

Apply cooling gel to the compressor near the ports.

Reopen the valve on the core removal tool attached to the low-side vapor service valve…

… as well as the manifold gauge’s low-side valve or valves…

… and the valve on the nitrogen tank.

With the small amount of nitrogen flowing through the system, use the acetylene torch and brazing rod to seal the copper tubing to the compressor.

With the compressor tubing sealed, close the valves on the tool attached to the low-side vapor service valve…

… the manifold gauge…

… and the nitrogen tank.

Again, you can use a wet rag to help cool the tubing and wipe off the gel.

Connect the wire harness to the new compressor.

Next, you should induce pressure in the refrigeration system to check for leaks.

Note the factory test pressure rating range indicated on the model number label.

You will want to induce pressure slightly above the lower parameter rating – for this unit, we’re choosing 300 pounds per square inch.

Confirm the low-side manifold gauge valve or valves are closed…

100

… then close the valve on the blue hose and confirm the valve on the tool attached to the low-side service valve is closed.

101

With both valves closed, detach the blue hose.

102

Attach the red manifold gauge hose to the core removal tool threaded onto the high-side liquid service valve.

103

Confirm the tool valve is open and open the hose valve.

104

You will need to detach the nitrogen tank’s metering device and reattach the yellow hose to the tank.

105

Now open the valve on the nitrogen tank…

106

… and open the high-side manifold gauge valve or valves to induce the designated amount of pressure.

107

Once the pressure amount is reached, close both the manifold gauge valves and the valve on the nitrogen tank.

108

Observe the pressure amount for approximately twenty minutes to confirm the system is not leaking pressure.

109

You can also apply leak detection solution to the copper tubing joints near the compressor and filter-drier to help determine if any leaks are present.

110

Once you confirm the system is leak-free, open the valve on the tool attached to the low-side vapor service valve to release the pressure.

111

Detach the red hose from the tool threaded onto the high-side liquid service valve.

112

You can now reposition the lower access cover and secure it with the screws.

113

Rotate the control box inward and push up.

114

Rethread the two screws to secure.

115

Set the air grille cover on the top of the condensing unit, allowing enough space to feed the fan motor wires through the hole in the control box.

116

Use a new zip-tie to secure the wires to the condenser coil.

117

With the wires secured, fully align the cover on the condensing unit.

118

Thread the fourteen screws to secure.

119

Do not fully tighten the two screws above the control box.

120

Attach the black fan motor wire to the contactor terminal.

121

Attach the purple wire to the common terminal, indicated by the letter “c”, on the capacitor…

122

… and the brown wire to the fan terminal.

123

Use a new zip-tie to bundle the wires together.

124

Reposition the upper access cover…

125

… and replace the two lower screws.

126

Tighten the two upper air grille cover screws.

127

Next, you will want to confirm the refrigeration system is fully evacuated before introducing new refrigerant.

128

To do this…

129

… attach the vacuum hoses to the core removal tools threaded onto the liquid and vapor service valves.

130

Attach a digital vacuum gauge to the port on the side of the core removal tool threaded onto the liquid service valve.

131

Use a vacuum hose to connect the “t” connecter to a vacuum pump.

132

Turn the digital vacuum gauge on…

133

… and confirm both valves on the tools attached to the service valve are open.

134

Turn on the vacuum pump to fully evacuate the refrigeration system – this will take approximately twenty minutes.

135

It is recommended to evacuate the system to 500 microns or below.

136

Close the valves on the two core removal tools attached to the service valves… and turn off the vacuum pump.

137

Now observe the vacuum gauge for approximately ten to fifteen minutes to confirm the micron level does not exceed one thousand microns.

138

Once confirmed, detach the vacuum hoses from the core removal tools.

139

Detach the digital vacuum gauge as well

140

Next, confirm the cores, or schrader valves, are inserted into the ends of the core removal tool stems.

141

Insert the stems into the tools and tighten the stem nuts.

142

To reinstall a core, open the valve on the tool, push the stem in and rotate clockwise to thread the core into place.

143

Repeat for the other service valve.

144

With the cores reinstalled, unthread both tools.

145

You’re now ready to replace the refrigerant in the system – we recommend using new refrigerant when doing this.

146

Attach the manifold gauge’s yellow hose to a refrigerant tank containing the refrigerant type indicated on the unit’s model number label.

147

Turn the refrigerant tank upside down on the digital scale to ensure the liquid refrigerant will disperse through the hoses.

148

Open the manifold gauge valves…

149

… and the valve on the tank.

150

Now open the red and blue hose valves briefly to purge the hoses.

151

Once purged, attach the red hose to the high-side liquid service valve…

152

… and the blue hose to the low-side vapor service valve.

153

Now close the manifold gauge valves…

154

… and open the hose valves.

155

Calibrate the scale to “zero”…

156

… then set the scale for the appropriate factory charge amount as listed on the unit’s model number label – this unit requires 91 ounces.

157

Open the red high side manifold gauge valve or valves controlling the input to the liquid service valve.

158

Observe the scale and close the manifold gauge valve or valves once the appropriate amount of refrigerant has entered the system.

159

Now restore power to both the condensing unit…

160

… and the furnace.

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Lower the thermostat to call for cooling…

162

… and allow the condensing unit to run for approximately five minutes.

163

Depending on the type of metering device used on the furnace’s evaporator coil, you will now need to check either the superheat or subcooling measurement.

164

If the metering device is a piston or orifice style, you will check the superheat measurement.

165

To do this, attach a temperature meter to the low-side copper line connected to the vapor service valve.

166

Note the temperature.

167

Now observe the vapor service valve indicator dial on the manifold gauge to note the saturated temperature of the evaporator coil.

168

The superheat measurement will be the saturated temperature of the evaporator coil subtracted from the copper line temperature.

169

Next, use a psychrometer’s wet bulb to measure the air temperature in the return duct of the furnace, in the area before the air reaches the evaporator coil.

170

Use the psychrometer’s dry bulb, or a regular thermometer, to measure the temperature of the outside air surrounding the condensing unit.

171

Now, using a target superheat chart, you can identify the target superheat number by noting where the two air temperature readings intersect on the chart.

172

If the actual superheat measurement is notably higher than the target number, you will need to add refrigerant to the system until the actual superheat measurement more closely aligns with the target.

173

If the actual superheat measurement is notably lower than the target number, you will need to recover some of the refrigerant until the two numbers more closely align.

174

It is recommended to perform the superheat testing procedure a second time for accuracy.

175

If the metering device on the furnace’s evaporator coil is a thermal expansion valve, you will need to check the subcooling measurement.

176

To do this, attach the temperature meter to the high-side copper line connected to the liquid service valve.

177

Note the temperature.

178

Now observe the liquid service valve indicator dial on the manifold gauge to note the saturated temperature of the condenser coil.

179

The subcooling measurement will be the copper line temperature subtracted from the condenser coil saturated temperature.

180

This measurement should be between ten to twenty degrees fahrenheit or within three degrees, plus or minus, of the designated temperature indicated on the model number label.

181

If the subcooling measurement is notably higher, you will need to recover some of the refrigerant.

182

If the subcooling measurement is notably lower, you will need to add some refrigerant.

183

Once you’ve confirmed the refrigerant level is accurate, close the valve on the refrigerant tank…

184

… and open the blue low-side manifold gauge valve or valves to let the residual refrigerant enter the vapor service valve.

185

Close the two hose valves…

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… and quickly detach the hoses from the service valves.

187

Replace the protective caps…

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… or install locking caps if required.

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The central air condensing unit should now be ready for use.

Description

Step-By-Step Instructions