If your Gibson dryer is not heating or your dryer has no heat, start with the most likely causes and work down the list. The thermal fuse is the top culprit; it blows when the dryer overheats and will read open on a multimeter, often because the exhaust vent is restricted so check and clean the vent before replacing the fuse. Next is the drive motor’s centrifugal switch: a bad switch can let the motor run but prevent the heat cycle from engaging, and most motors are replaced as an assembly. On gas models, faulty gas valve solenoids will stop ignition even if the igniter glows, and we recommend replacing the coils as a set. Also confirm you haven’t accidentally selected a no-heat cycle or the wrong heat setting. Finally, a burned-out igniter will show no continuity and must be replaced. If you need parts, enter your model number on RepairClinic.com to find the exact replacement components for your dryer.
01 - Gibson Dryer Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is a safety device designed to protect the dryer from overheating. The fuse is located on the blower housing or at the dryer’s heat source such as the heating element on electric dryers or at the burner on gas models. The fuse should be closed for continuity meaning it has a continuous electrical path through it when good. If overheated the fuse will have no continuity meaning the electrical path is broken and the fuse has blown. A multimeter can be used to test it for continuity. Be aware that a blown thermal fuse is an indication of a restricted exhaust vent from the dryer to the outside. Always check t...he dryer venting when replacing a blown thermal fuse.
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Most dryer drive motors have a centrifugal switch that energizes a start winding when the motor is first started and closes a heat cycle contact to allow the heat source to work. If the motor's centrifugal switch is faulty, either the motor won’t run or the motor will run but the dryer won’t heat. Since most centrifugal switches are not sold separately, the entire motor will need to be replaced if the switch is defective.
Gas dryers have two or more gas valve solenoid coils. The gas valve solenoids open the gas valve ports to allow gas to flow into the burner assembly. If a gas valve solenoid fails, the dryer won’t heat. To determine if one or more of the gas valve solenoids has failed, check the igniter. If the igniter glows and goes out but does not ignite the gas, the gas valve solenoid is defective. If one or more of the gas valve coils are defective, we recommend that you replace them as a set.
Ensure the dryer is set to the appropriate heat setting. The setting may have been inadvertently changed to a non-heat option.
Highly Likely
05 - Incorrect cycle selected
The dryer setting may have been inadvertently changed to a non-heat option. Confirm the dryer is set to a proper heating option such as "Regular" or "Heavy" to see if that improves drying performance.
Highly Likely
06 - Gibson Dryer Igniter
The igniter uses heat to ignite the gas in the burner assembly. If the igniter is not working, the gas will not ignite, preventing the dryer from heating. To determine if the igniter has burned out, use a multimeter to test the igniter for continuity. If the igniter does not have continuity, replace it.
The heating element warms the air before it enters the dryer drum. Over time, the heating element can burn out, causing the dryer not to heat. To determine if the heating element has burned out, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the heating element does not have continuity, replace it.